The middle of the state. The middle of the night. The middle of a large pile of gear. From the middle, ground-control for my Everglades Challenge team seems like a way of life. It's probably sleep deprivation (I write this at midnight, over a bowl of dairy-free frozen dessert, in between reloading various tracking pages and checking the social media), but here I go again, blearily worrying, along with a clan of like-minded folks as we follow the progress of the 100 or so boats as they paddle, sail, and row down the left side of the Florida peninsula. For those who haven't been following, here's the overview: The Everglades Challenge is a 300-mile unsupported expedition race put on by a gang called the WaterTribe. Competitors get a WaterTribe name. My favorite skipper –– AKA TwoBeers –– is racing with his childhood pal, the offshore sailing coach for the Naval Academy, Jahn Tihansky (tribe name Moresailesed). They set sail on the first Saturday in March at dawn from Fort Desoto in St. Pete, aboard a boat called Spawn designed by OH Rodgers (Ninjee). As expected, the WaterTribe tracking site is experiencing some kind of technological version of the vapors. Raceowl.com is doing better, but it means translating four-digit numbers back into familiar names. Spawn of Frankenscot is 3092, Safety Dance is 2969, Spongebob is 3072, the German guy, Schappi, is 3068, Jarhead is 3154, Puma is 3134, SeadogRocket and BermudaBoy are 3104, Ccock 3043. Et cetera. Yesterday started for the Spawn team at o'dark thirty, when Jeff and Jahn and I piled into Charlie Clifton's van with yet more piles of gear, and made our way to the beach at Fort Desoto. Where we were met with a whole tribe of people wearing head-lamps and lycra-enhanced fitness clothing toting bales of stuff out to their various watercraft. The Challenge begins, fiendishly enough, with the competitors needing to push their boats from the high-tide line into the water at the signal at 7 am. Some folks have wallowed in the sand for seemingly hours. Not my fellas! The launching of the fleet was relatively slow this year –– not much breeze. Still, the moment passes in a twinkling of the eye. At seven, the beach is packed, by a quarter after, only a lonesome boat or two and spectators are left on the beach. I don't know what other ground-control people do, but given that Moresailesed was shedding virus and coughing like a consumptive, I cleaned up with a vengeance. Seven loads of laundry, autoclaving the dishes, a possibly unhealthy number of Clorox wipes, followed by a quick nip around to the non-dairy frozen dessert section of my local grocery and a nice cat-nap. My phone is buzzing more than usual: Spawn has a following, and even with the light wind there's an element of nail-biting suspense. Moresailesed send along a photo from onboard –– roughly, I am thinking, from the spot where they spent some time last year recovering from a bit of excitement. Evidently the mosquitoes are making an appearance on board Spawn –– last year, the poor devils couldn't make headway agains the wind. Each Challenge is different, I suppose, and a new test of the competitors' varying skills.
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Headline: Nearly There. Sunrise on the first Saturday in March is less than a week away. We've started checking the weather.
And alright, perhaps a skosh more work on the centerboard gasket. Aaannnnd those shrouds can be refabricated. Again. Gahh. Thank goodness for the support of Leslie and Paulie at Masthead Enterprises in St. Pete, Brian Malone at North Sails, and Derek Dudinsky at JTR Industries for helping with last-minute fixes! Ooh, yeah, plus some food. I (WaterTribe name: BookWorm) will Betty-Jo Crocker a batch of toothsome morsels for the heroes. ....And Bookworm needs to apply a fresh bit of Sharpie-marker for the eyes of Horus* so they can keep a sharp lookout. As in past years during the Challenge, I will be pacing about and clicking "refresh" way too often. I'll attempt to report progress and adventure and photos in as timely a fashion as possible here and on the Spawn facebook page.
Hoping for a speedy and not too adventuresome a Challenge for the entire fleet of intrepid Watertribers. Knock wood. Just when I think my favorite skipper is finished with his boat-building, he comes up with one more cool refinement.
Not the inexpensive solution, but Hydroturf sure looks sharp. The ocean blue might be a little warm in the sun, but it's cushy and –– so we hear –– UV resistant. Then there's a nifty water-take-up contraption. Since the water wings act as water ballast tanks, of course, it's important to be able to fill and empty them rapidly.
When one of the Spawnsters gives the little line on the right of the tube a tug, the inner section telescopes into the water, allowing for rapid water take-up. Stowage is a universal question. It's all well and good to pack what you need, but what if you can't find it when you need it? In the original boat (Frankenscot, a highly modified Flying Scot), Masthead Sailing Gear fabricated some big, roomy zip bags. In combination with plastic tubs and netting hammocks, it worked pretty well. But after last year's watery portion of the trip (Short story: they flipped and stuff floated away. Longer version: here.), one of the goals was to have more secure storage for gear. Hence, new tailored Masthead Enterprise custom bags are tucked and snapped into place between bulkheads. With luck the snacks and electronics will not become separated from the boat. Knock wood, knock wood. And at Moresailesaid's specific request, TwoBeers installed a special Masthead-made splash guard. Made of Mylar sailcloth, the guard is meant to deflect spray for a drier ride with better visibility. Did I mention knock wood?
The 2019 Everglades Challenge is a month away, and my favorite skipper is finalizing this year's modifications to Spawn of Frankenscot, the 22-foot-long, OH-Rodgers-designed adventure boat that engages his attention this time of year.
But the wings are worth a quick look, I think. So here's a video. I'm calling them "water wings." Like the inflatable swim aids, these solid wings should give the boat additional floatation and resistance to turning over. Which is important to me, anyhow. And as promised, a short video from the weekend of testing Spawn. By the time I got on the water with a camera, the air was VERY light. Thanks to EnsignRumsDown who filled in for Moresailesaid on New Year's Day. My favorite skipper will be away from this project for a few weeks while he sails other, less quirky vessels.
Each year, I try to tamp down my impatience and worry knowing that Two Beers finds the long, fiddly process both mentally and physically engaging.
Each year, Mr. Linton dreams up some Gucci modifications to the adventure boat: water ballast tanks, a foiling board, cassette rudders, a big old bowsprit.
And he's back at it again.
Since the metal handicap-rail style hiking racks began to wrack, and it takes the better half of a small village to get the things pressed and warped into place, Mr. Linton has been cooking up a better idea.
Last year's water tanks (made of polycarbonate sheets) point-loaded on the straps holing them in place, and after getting water-boarded by the mighty Gulf of Mexico the first night of the challenge, turned out to be less sturdy and consequently less water-tight than one might hope. Combine the these two elements, add in a salvaged carbon fiber A-Cat mast from the most excellent Robert Cummings of Cummings Marine, and design courtesy of OH "Ninjee" Rodgers, and the Spawn is taking new shape. Folding carbon-fiber hiking racks.
Testing should begin within a few weeks.
But then came the horn and they scarpered off the beach in the twinkling of an eye: Core Sounds and SeaPearls with stately grace, catamarans skittering along like insects, kayaks leaving only a trace in the sand and the water as they went.
It’s a mixed bag of competitors: a couple of doughty stand-up paddlers, many kayaks and sailing kayaks, multi-hulls, classic sailing skiffs, a pair of solar-powered electric vessels, and some funky one-ups, like our own Spawn.
Among the vessels I watch is the diminutive (and frankly adorable) Elusion 9' sailed by Wizard. This boat looks like a cross between the bow section of a Maxi racer and the costume worn by my nephew for Halloween 20 or so years ago.
The first boats arrived at Checkpoint 1 (CP1, Cape Haze, 65 miles from the start) in the early afternoon.
The WaterTribe Facebook page provided a far-too-entertaining selection of spectators’ videos of the fleet making the turn into Stump Pass.
Spawn was third to CP1. I send them a text telling them to change the batteries in their personal locater device (SPOT). In his inaugural Challenge, our buddy Andyman sailed his SeaPearl to victory in the UltraMarathon, which is essentially a sprint to CP1. He reported in wearily that, "It was a LOT hairier than I expected out there."
Rumors started blowing with the wind: I got a message that the boys were maybe stopped to effect repairs.
I got a message that the boys had maybe broken a rudder. I got a message about the Coast Guard rescuing someone, not them. They were taking a nap, someone said. Someone had seen them tied up in the mangroves. On the tracker, Spawn went from first by a long stretch to second, and then third. I didn’t pinpoint where they had paused for whatever reason, but whenever I checked, they were moving. Their speed looked good.
THier Side of the Story
Meanwhile, on the high seas...
When the sun set on Saturday, TwoBeers and Moresailesaid doused the chute, per their safety plan. [No trapezes or big sails at night.] The wind was blowing NNW at about 15 knots.
A contrary wave at a sluggish moment, and Spawn went ass-over-teakettle.
Picture the scene:
Bright moonlight. The distant glow of lights on shore 10 or 12 miles distant. 50 or more feet of water underneath the gently bobbing upside-down belly of the boat. Bio-luminescent plankton sparkling in the disturbed water. Waves playfully slapping at our heros as they considered their options.
“That phone ––“ Moresailesaid brooded. “That phone was supposed to be waterproof –– wait, did you text us?”
TwoBeers’ litany of loss continued. “And everything in the bow switched sides. The storm jib was on the port side, and ended up on the starboard side. The Code Zero was on starboard and ended on the port side. It all changed places"
I said, “I wonder where the yellow rollers and the rest of the stuff will washed ashore?”
“Probably Cuba,” TwoBeers' voice took on a speculative air. “–– maybe the Dry Tortugas.” Into the heavy silence that followed, Moresailesaid offered up this observation: “The worst thing was that my dry suit filled up with water and my legs were like THIS big around. "And the first thing that happens is that the water burps your shoes right off your feet.” Shaking his head, “I was THIS far from slicing open my booties.” “Did yours do that too?” I asked TwoBeers. He shrugged. Sweet mother of–– some things I guess I would rather not know. “But JT gets the swimming award,” TwoBeers announced cheerfully.
Glancing up, Moresailesaid hastily added, “It was warm! And I was floating just fine. It was only a problem when I went to get into the boat.”
Yup, that’s when it would be. “Oh, but the phosphorescence!” TwoBeers interjected. “There was a TON of phosphorescence in the water,” agreed Moresailesaid.
"When I told him we’d lost our fishing gear, he came up with Crumb Cakes, and little bags of peanuts, and water. So we didn’t go hungry.” Note to self: Crumb Cakes. They’re not just for breakfast any more. TwoBeers stayed on narrative track. “Somehow the boom-bag got loose, but it tangled itself up with the water hoses. Good thing, too, because it had the VHF and the iPad and the solar charger. Don’t know if the charger works. The bag was full of water, but we used the iPad to navigate Florida Bay.” Moresailesaid added, “I wiped the solar charger dry. We didn’t try it.” He shook his head and repeated, “Everything in the dry-boxes got wet.”
“So after we flipped and got it back,” TwoBeers spoke as a man summarizing. “We went through Caxambas pass and decided to stop and dry off. Every line on the boat was macramed around everything else.”
“I was shivering,” admitted Moresailesaid. “So we anchored in the mangroves for a while.” “Did you just lie down and sleep?” I asked. “No,” said TwoBeers. “We stripped down, dried the inside of our dry suits, put on dry clothes –– the Ziplock bags worked. And so did the garbage bag – the sleeping bag stayed dry through everything! Weird. I don’t know why the dry boxes filled up.” “We should have had everything in the dry boxes packed in Ziplocks.” Moresailesaid added darkly, “Wish I had the patent on the Ziplock.” TwoBeers continued, “I don’t know how long it took, but the tide changed while we were anchored. And DeSea sailed past us.” “Yeah,” I said, “He said that he saw you and checked to make sure you were okay.” I didn’t mention how DeSea expressed his alarm. Or how we’d shared an awful moment of camaraderie on the topic of human frailty and our own TwoBeers.. “So we had foul current all the way to CP2. We sailed and rowed. Rowed and sailed. Rowing warmed me up.” As it does.
Huh. 4:25 am, and the Coast Guard has posted a Small Craft Advisory until 8 o'clock a.m. According to the skipper's meeting, that means the Everglades Challenge Tribe will hold on shore until conditions are a trice less sporty.
Quite a crowd of Challengers this year. The scene from the beach on Friday afternoon was the usual mix of colorful and amazing. After a short on-shore delay, the gang set sail at 9 a.m. A pleasant off-shore wind sent the fleet along with the usual magical rapidity. One instant they are there, the next, poof! they are away... |
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